La dolce vita

The days of the '50s and '60s when all of Hollywood seemed to show up in Rome, and the paparazzi mobbed such Hollywood stars as Elizabeth Taylor and Ingrid Bergman along the Via Veneto are but lovely memories. Even if you didn't see these major films previewed below at the time of their release, you can catch all of them on the late show. Movie buffs are fond of visiting the actual sites where these films were shot. No street in Rome was more famous than the Via Veneto when Federico Fellini released his now classic La Dolce Vita in 1960. It's no longer chic, but there was a time you could see Shelley Winters and Vittorio Gassman battling each other here for the benefit of the paparazzi. The stars of La Dolce Vita, Marcello Mastroianni and Anita Ekberg, also frolicked in the rococo Fountain of Trevi. Tourists still come here to toss coins in the fountain, as the actors did in the 1954 film Three Coins in the Fountain, which is said to ensure their return to The Eternal City. It was on Via Margutta that Gregory Peck spent the night with his runaway princess, Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday (1953). Fellini and his wife, Giulietta Masina, once lived on this street as well. In one of Roman Holiday's most memorable scenes, the Bocca della Verità, at Santa Maria in Cosmedin, 18 Piazza della Verità, is still standing. This ancient stone face is said to bite those who dare to lie while sticking their hand in the "mouth of truth." It was along Via Montecuccoli that Anna Magnani, playing Pina, was gunned down on her wedding day in one of the most unforgettable scenes from Roberto Rossellini's 1945 Rome, Open City. More recent films include 1999's The Talented Mr. Ripley, starring Matt Damon as the Machiavellian Tom Ripley. Based on the Patricia Highsmith novel, this thriller features many gorgeous shots of Rome. In 1996, scenes from Jane Campion's Portrait of a Lady were shot at the Palazzo dei Conservatory, at Piazza del Campodoglio. In the courtyard here, Isabel Archer (played by Nicole Kidman) faces the cruel fact that her marriage is as fragmented as the pieces of Constantine's statue stacked against the wall. La Dolce Vita... e Il dolce far niente One of Rome’s countless gifts to the world are two forms of art: the famous La Dolce Vita ("The Sweet Life"), but also Il dolce Far Niente ("Sweet Doing Nothing" or "Sweet Idleness"). The meaning of Il Dolce Far Niente goes far beyond innocently spending time doing absolutely nothing in the most pleasant way, which would lead to the stereotype of portraying Romans as lazy. As the British Italophile Michael Dibdin puts it, doing nothing alla Romana is not a matter of idleness or indolence. In fact Romans have taken this apparent non-activity to the level of an art form. To a Roman, to see and to be seen, to experience life to the fullest, to love and to be loved, are the very essence of living — and the Eternal City provides an enchanting venue in which to “do it all.” A distinctive feature of Rome is that it throbs with life ticking every second with an enjoyable spirit of enthusiasm, innocence, intuition, improvisation and leisure. It means letting your senses be the guide, getting lost, immersing in the place and just watching it live and display, also being impressed by how much beauty can be created by so many non-planned aspects crammed and layered through the millennia. Dibden concludes: "Rome will reward you as no other city can, by making you feel as all her visitors have for over two thousand years: that you are the first person to really understand and appreciate her, the only one truly worthy of her infinite charms." Said differently, in Rome one grasps the meaning of love of life, and visitors love Rome precisely because it can do this to them, especially in an era in which a global hectic working pace makes us all forget the taste of life, and of its facets. Related to Il Dolce Far Niente, and an equally creative art form, la La Dolce Vita takes its name from the film presented in 1960 by maestro Federico Fellini, a most imaginative film director, and a man capable of understanding people and life in all their facets. Few films have the same iconic force. Many of its scenes, like that of sensuous and irreverent Anita Ekberg immersing herself in the Trevi Fountain and inviting Marcello Mastroianni to join her, embody cinema itself, not just Rome let alone The Sweet Life. The film caused heated debates. Italian right-wing parties invited to ban the film, claiming it would corrupt youth with its philosophy of edonistic, hollow, decadent life. On the other hand, left-wing parties applauded the film for its ability to break through conservative hypocrisy. Most typical of them, Italians were equally divided on both sides. Sadly enough, the English-speaking, also nowadays, in general view negatively La Dolce Vita and the lifestyle it embodies, portrayed often as a decadent way to squander life. Yet repugnance and attraction are simultaneous, and never the Dolce Vita is neglected, and no presentation of Rome avoids mentioning it. In any event, the idea of "The Sweet Life" is inseparately chained to its natural shooting location, Rome, as if it could not happen in any other place – no matter how pleasant or exciting. Fellini's film created a myth, yet myths have their foundations in reality. In fact the movie reveals the spirit of an era. Europe and Italy, following post-WW2 reconstruction, were undergoing deep-seated social and economic changes. Il miracolo economico (the economic miracle), a period of economic prosperity and optimism was at its peak. Rome was at the centre of the attention of the flourished movie industry. Films such as "Ben Hur" (1958) and "Cleopatra" (1961) were shot at Cinecittà, Rome’s film studios, renowned as "Hollywood on the Tiber", and which attracted directors and film stars the world over. Fellini portrays the eccentric night life of would-be actors, impoverished aristocrats, playboys and dandies, fashionable intellectuals, and ever ready paparazzi. Sports cars ran along down the Via Veneto and its trendy cafes. A slight minority would attend the most intriguing, exciting, outrageous parties and leisurely events, defying work principles and social obligations, squandering time and resources in Rome's long summer nights. However, the film portrays the intrinsic contradictions and crisis of a society undergoing transformation, disconcerted as it faces the volatile values of the new age of mass communication and consumerism. Anti-hero Marcello Mastroianni embodies the disorientation, and also captures the quintessentially Roman disenchanted irony. And who hasn’t dreamed of living a Dolce Vita fantasy at least once in life? Nowadays Via Veneto boasts some of the most luxurious hotels in the city, and the cafes where the La Dolce Vita was shot still exist. Yet the atmosphere is quite different from that of those roaring 60s, it is rather an elitarian quarter for wealthy tourists. Today the Roman sweet life can be best found in the area around piazza Navona (Piazza del Fico, Piazza della Pace etc.) and Campo de' Fiori, although at night time, especially on Saturdays, also the area of the Spanish Steps and the Trevi Fountain rekindles the magical Yet Rome’s long, pleasant nights and its simultaneously relaxed and enthusiast attitude, allows each one of us to have even a taste of La Dolce Vita. Dining until late in the favourite restaurant with friends and with the "special someone", strolling very late through the maze of streets and fountains trying to find the night baker just to taste the early morning croissant before dropping off to sleep will make you understand the magic of Rome, and that in no other place it would be the same.

Each region of Italy has its own cuisine, and because Rome has become home to Italians from all over the country, the city's cuisine has been influenced by many different sources. Geographical distinctions aside, the real Roman cuisine is the food of a poor people — you'll find it in the rustic trattorias, not the upscale restaurants. Classic Roman dishes include spaghetti carbonara, l'abbacchio (roast lamb) or the most classic of all Roman dishes, trippa (tripe). The concept of service in trattorias is also quite different — basically, they have no concept of service — but the food is excellent, and it's a genuine Roman experience. For more elegant and refined dining, try a Tuscan restaurant or Sicilian baroque cooking.

After the meal (or between meals, if you like), you should not miss out on Italian coffee. Even those who are not fond of the strong flavor of espresso may find the genuine version far more palatable.

Gelato, the heavenly Italian ice cream, is a treat any time of the day. Whether you take your gelato after a long walk in the blazing heat, after dinner or at 2 a.m. between visits to bars, there's no better way to satisfy a sweet tooth.

Blow the expense account — For a supreme cultural as well as gastronomical experience, spend an evening at Relais de Jardin. Let the sommelier help you choose your wine from one of Italy's 20 regions. Appetizers are beautifully prepared and presented. Any of the rice or pasta dishes prepared with vegetable or seafood sauces will not disappoint. Wide selection of refined seafood, lamb, beef and veal dishes for the main course. Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations required. Formal attire. Extremely expensive. Most major credit cards. Hotel Lord Byron: Via Giuseppe de Notaris 5; 39-06-322-0404.

Camponeschi is an upscale restaurant near the Michelangelo-designed Palazzo Farnese that now houses the French Embassy. Try the fusilli calabresi (corkscrew pasta with fresh tomatoes and eggplant sauce) or maltagliati all'astice (short, flat pasta with lobster sauce). For an entree, order rosette con carciofi (veal with artichokes) or agnello al rosmarino (lamb with rosemary). There's a wide selection of rich, creamy desserts. Monday-Saturday for dinner. Reservations recommended. Extremely expensive. Most major credit cards. Piazza Farnese 50; 39-06-687-4927.

Seafood extravaganza — If you want to get twice your money's worth eating out in Rome, then visit Ristorante da Vincenzo in the Centro Storico. The friendliness of the service is surpassed only by the quality of the food. Begin the evening with a Sicilian or Sardinian dry white wine from Vincenzo's well-stocked cellar. Order the antipasto misto al mare (assorted marinated seafood). For the first course, ask for penne or linguine all'astice (short or long pasta with lobster sauce). If you find it impossible to settle for only one type of pasta, ask for an assaggio (a sampler) of at least three kinds. For the main course, choose among mazzancole alla griglia (grilled king prawns), rombo e patate al forno (baked turbot with potatoes) and spigola in acqua pazza (sea bass boiled in seasoned water). Let the waiter fillet the fish for you. Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations required. Expensive. Most major credit cards. Via Castelfidardo 4 (near the Baths of Diocletian); 39-06-484-596.

Roman classics — La Parolaccia is equally famous throughout Italy for its authentic Roman cooking and for the vulgarity and rudeness of its staff. In fact, the name translates as "the swear word." It's all completely in jest, and no offense should be taken. Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Inexpensive. No credit cards. Via del Cinque 3, Trastevere; 39-06-580-3633.

Founded by Italian showbiz giants Aldo Fabrizi and Sora Lella and run by their nieces and nephews, Sora Lella is famous for its classic Roman cooking. Try tonnarelli alla cuccagna (thick, twisted spaghetti with a vegetable and bacon sauce), gnocchi all'amatriciana (potato dumplings with tomato and bacon sauce) or coda alla vaccinara (stewed cow's tail). There are also several fresh-fish dishes. Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. Moderate. Most major credit cards. Via di Ponte Quattro Capi 16 (on Tiber Island, in front of the synagogue); 39-06-686-1601.

Pizza, of course — Pizzeria Ai Marmi — probably the best known in Rome — is commonly called l'obitorio, Italian for "the morgue," because of its minimalist interior design (a large white room with simple, rectangular marble tables). Despite the morbid decor, it's packed most nights with lively crowds. The wood-burning oven is in the corner, so you can watch the hypnotizing pizza-making process. Try the calzone. Daily (except Wednesday) for lunch and dinner. Inexpensive. Most major credit cards. Viale Trastevere 53-59; 39-06-580-0919.

In summer, the alley in front of pizzeria Le Montecarlo is filled with tables full of boisterous Romans consuming all the specialties of the city. The service is faster than it is polite, but the pizzas are great and the pasta, some of the best in Rome. The ambience, while not elegant, is certainly unforgettable. Tuesday-Sunday for lunch and dinner. Inexpensive. Most major credit cards. Via dei Savelli 12 (near Piazza Navona); 39-06-686-1877.

Pretty people alfresco — Dine in the piazza among TV actors and international residents at Il Fontanone. The spinach omelette and pizzas are especially recommended. Daily (except Tuesday) for lunch and dinner. Closed 20 August-15 September. Inexpensive. Most major credit cards. Piazza Trilussa 46, Trastevere; 39-06-581-7312.

Bravo for beef — If you're in the mood for top-grade, aged meat, know that no one treats prime beef better than Italians from the region of Tuscany — such as the family that runs Da Tullio, a homey and rustic, but stylish, restaurant. Try any of the long pasta dishes with truffle shavings or wild mushroom and parsley sauce. Cooked over an open fire, the tagliata (sliced beef grilled and garnished with basil and Parmesan cheese shavings) will satisfy your craving for quality beef. Superbly executed fish and seafood entrees are distinguished as well. Local gourmands crowd this place. Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. Moderate. Most major credit cards. Via San Nicola da Tolentino 26; 39-06-474-5560.

Kosher cuisine Italiano — In the heart of the Jewish ghetto, La Taverna del Ghetto Kosher serves typical Jewish Roman dishes. Kosher Italian cuisine is not well-known outside of Italy, but many Romans consider it the best example of the city's culinary traditions. Try the specialty, tortino di alicotti all'indivia. Daily (except Friday) for lunch and dinner. Moderate. No credit cards. Via Portico d'Ottavia 8; 39-06-6880-9771.

Entertaining eatery — Carved from the ancient Theater of Tiberiu and remodeled by Queen Christina of Sweden in the 1500s, Fantasia di Trastevere offers a floor show with its food. Shows may include cabaret, folk dancing and music, fire jugglers and experimental theater to enjoy after your marinated salmon, mezze maniche con straccetti di manzo e zucca gialla (rigatoni with shredded beef and yellow squash) or filetto di rombo (turbot with pine nuts and raisin sauce). Evenings only, 8 p.m-midnight. Reservations recommended. Moderate. Most major credit cards. Via San Dorotea 6, Trastevere; 39-06-588-1671.

Pretty as a picture — L'Antico Arco gives you elegant, trendy cuisine, served up in an 8th-century building on Janiculum Hill. The seasonal menu is graced by such delights as spaghetti cacio e pepe con fiori di zucca crocanti (spaghetti with aged cheese, pepper and fried zucchini flowers), carpaccio caldo con i carciofi (sauteed beef served on a bed of artichokes) and petti di faraona con tartufi (quail breasts with shredded truffle and a potato tart). You'll be tempted to photograph the desserts, but instead concentrate on not licking the plates. Tuesday-Sunday for dinner. Reserve a week in advance. Moderate. Most major credit cards. Via San Pancrazio 1; 39-06-581-5274.

Brilliant breakfast — Bibli is a relaxing cafe and bookstore in the Trastevere area that happens to serve a classic breakfast buffet on Sunday morning. It's a bit small, but it's comfortable if you can get a table. In the afternoons and evenings they have poetry readings and acoustic live music. Tuesday-Sunday 11 a.m.-midnight, Monday 5 p.m.-midnight. Inexpensive. Most major credit cards. Via dei Fienaroli 28, Trastevere; 39-06-588-4097.

Basta, basta with the Italiano — When you need a break from Italian food, we recommend Thien Kim, a first-class restaurant that serves traditional Vietnamese dishes. We love the calamari with ginger and the frog legs in green coconut curry. Tuesday-Saturday for dinner. Expensive. Most major credit cards. Via Giulia 201; 39-06-6830-7832.

Caffes and caffeine — Gran Caffe La Caffettiera is one of the most elegant and relaxing places in Rome. Located in a richly decorated former theater, it's the perfect place to escape the mobs of tourists. Lounge on the velvet sofas while chatting and sipping espresso. In addition to an extensive range of coffees, teas, cocktails and liqueurs, the cafe serves light sandwiches, pastries and desserts. Tuesday-Saturday 8:30 a.m.-5 p.m. Moderate. Via Margutta, 61/a (between Piazza del Popolo and the Spanish Steps); 39-06-321-3344.

Glorious gelato — If you ask for chocolate at Gelateria della Palma, the response will be Quale?, or "Which one?" There are more than 20 flavors of chocolate, in addition to the hundreds of other inventive and classic flavors. Open daily, generally 10 a.m.-7 p.m. They stay open later in the summer, until 1-2 a.m. sometimes.

Holliwood on the Tiber

Café-restaurant in the heart of Rome

Café Romano is the sophisticated venue recently opened in Rome in the fashionable via Borgognona (near Piazza di Spagna), ideal for a relaxing stop during shopping, for a romantic aperitif, a business meeting.
Annexed to the legendary Hotel d’Inghilterra, open from 10 o’clock in the morning (for "late breakfast" and "wiener krapfen" fresh out of the oven) to beyond midnight for an after-theatre dinner, it is already a trendy venue.

IN this elegant space that lies somewhere between a restaurant and a luxury brasserie, all was designed with extreme care, from offered dishes to furniture, from colours to music, form the service to the artworks that distinguish the habitat.

And speaking of menus, at the Café Romano we range form spaghetti alla bottarga to confit de canard, from fish couscous to chicken green curry, from Chicago rib eye steak to Lebanese mezzeh. And excellences are not left out: Spanish "pata negra" ham, Italian culatello, duet de paté et terrine de campagne.

And desserts cannot be forgotten either. In the greta choice here we must mention mousse au chocolat, apfelstrudel, New York cheese cake, palascinta with walnut cream.

Served with a selection of glasses of wine from the most prestigious Italian and foreign wine areas.

Café Romano, via Borgognona 4/m - tel. 06.69981500.