Antica Osteria Rugantino: Cosy Inn in Trastevere

An Osteria is a local neighbourhood Inn serving serving good roman cusine in plentiful proportions. We came across this one in Trastevere and enjoyed in so much we came back most nights. Well we always seemed to end up on this side of the Tiber in the evenings and there was a handy bus stop just nearby to get us back to our hotel.
Price: US$11-20
Comparison: less expensive than average
Address: 54 Via della Lungaretta - Just across the Ponte Cestio, not far from Piazza Piscinula, in Trastevere
 

Ostaria del Gallo: Close to P. Navona, but a bit pricy

Osteria del Gallo (Gallo = Rooster) I tried the vegetable torta – two slices of a layered vegetable loaf, held together with an egg binding of sorts. Topped with a fresh tomato sauce. Very pretty and quite tasty. The veal “saltimbocca” (this literally means “jump in the mouth”) was delicious. Thin slices of veal with bay leaf and prosciutto in a lively lemon sauce. Great bread (lord, how I love Italian bread!) Still, a bit expensive for value received. I would have felt better if the bill had been about 6-8 Euros less than the 29E charged. Check out my tip on La Focaccia nearby which is more reasonably priced.

the vegetable torta
Price: US$21-30
Comparison: about average
Address: Vicolo di Montevecchio 27 - To find Ostaria del Gallo, at the Four Rivers Fountain in the middle of Piazza Navona, face the church. Take the first street to the right of the church (Via Tor Millina) and head east. At the second street, turn right. You’ll see del Gallo on the left.
Phone: 06 - 687 - 3781.

Hostaria Isidoro: "Basta, basta, I'm stuffed!!"

The meal I had here is one of the top 10 meals of my life!!! It's nothing fancy, but it was surely memorable. A group of us from the hostel decided to take the advice of the owners of our hostel and try it out. It's not too far from the Colosseum although it's a bit tricky to find if you've had one too many limoncellos. Inside, you'll find a very welcoming family atmosphere and most of the people eating here seemed to be in large parties all seated at long tables and conversing loudly and happily. We had 8 people from the hostel and had an amazing time.

Trust me. Just look at the waiter and say, "assaggini." This means that you are ordering the house special which is an endless stream of pasta, pasta and more pasta. I was amazed at the variety of pastas that kept coming one after the other. Our table had already sampled various Italian alcoholic treats at the hostel before arriving so we were particularly joyous each time the waiter brought the next dish. We greeted him with "hip, hip hoorays" and I'm sure he thought we were nuts! Make sure you're hungry. Also, order the house red and keep it coming. It was a young and delicious wine the night we were there. Sorry, I don't remember the price, but it was probably around 25-35 Euros per person.

Address: Via San Giovanni al Laterno, 59
Directions: Colosseum
 

Trattoria Da Bucatino: Bucatino all'Amatriciana
 

Another typical Roman "trattoria", but I would say this is the best one I've ever been to. My second time there was with Marit, maritagnes here on VT, a nice Norwegian lady and she said it was her best Italian meal ever. You can taste lots of typical Roman dishes, such as Bucatini all'Amatriciana, Pollo con peperoni, abbacchio allo scottadito and many others!

My favourite dish is, of course, Bucatini all'amatriciana. Bucatini are similar to spaghetti, but are much broader with a hole through the centre... The only problem is they're not as flexible as spaghetti so that it would be quite hard to wrap them round the fork!!!! So, if you want to avoid sauce all over your clothes and face, don't be shy and use your towel as a bib!!! Apart from this tricky part, it's a great experience!!!!
 

Price: US$11-20 
Address: Via Luca Della Robbia 84/86 - Testaccio area
Phone: (+39) 06 5746886
 

Dar Moschino: Trippa alla Romana!
 

Dar Moschino is a typical roman trattoria where you can find only a few dishes, changing day by day. If you go on Thursdays you can have gnocchi! They also have yummy home-made cakes. By the way, I heard the owner saying that if you want to eat a different cake you can bring one and eat it there!

Try trippa alla romana (roman-style tripe)! It's an unforgettable experience!!! :)
Price: US$11-20
Address: P.za Benedetto Brin 5
Phone: (+39) 06.5139473.

Taverna del Campo: Awesome wine bar, etc.

This could be one of my favorite places in the world. It's nothing fancy, but the concept, and the food is amazing. It's located in campo dei Fiori, the inside is all brick. It features big barrels of peanuts and free olives, and cheese at the bar. There is also outdoor seating and a light food menu including delicious crostini, and panini. the wine is of course great too.
 

Price: less than US$10
Address: Campo de' Fiori 16
Phone: 06 - 6874402
 

Roman Cousine

La Reina: Great Roman Cuisine!

Burnt orange terra cotta walls, red velvet curtains, leopard print swags, and plenty of candles set the mood for extremely attentive and friendly service, plus very good food. This restaurant seems to be patronized by locals more than tourists, but the exceptional service is what really makes it stand out!

Two heavy, but wonderful (and typically Roman) dishes were the spaghetti alla carbonara and the saltimbocca. The bacon was so flavorful. When the dishes are accompanied by a gratis glass of prosecco, they're even better!
Price: US$11-20 
Comparison: about average
Address: Vicolo di Montevecchio,2A; 00186 Roma - Nera Piazza Navona.

Hostaria Costanza: Romantic Dining in the Ruins of Pompey's Theater
 

This fascinating and charming restaurant is one of my favorites. It's built on the ruins of the Theater of Pompey, near where Julius Caesar was murdered -- you can see some of the old walls inside the restaurant. The food is excellent, and while not cheap, is not overpriced for what they offer. Very cozy and romantic place. Be sure to ask for their brochure which explains the history. Closed Sunday.

Pasta e fagioli Costanza, or my perennial favorite, any one of their risottos.

Price: US$31-40 

Piazza Paradiso 63/65 - Close to the church Sant'Andrea delle Valle on Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Not far from Campo dei Fiori. (Note: some tourist maps don't show Piazza Paradiso.).
Phone: 06-686-1717
 

Il Fico: Lively Fun and very local feel

Lively and fun! Very fresh creative menu. I saw them bring out a whole fish to show a customer for approval before preparing it. Great antipasti, fried calamari, yummo salads, very good wine and loved my steak.

Had the best stuffed zucchini flowers made with sheeps milk ricotta mmmm.
Price: US$11-20
Address: Piazza del Fico - Very close to Piazza Navona and Via Della Pace
Phone: 066875568
ilfico@ilfico.com.

Zio Ciro: Reasonable Prices with a View of the Pantheon

A very nice dining experience - quite reasonably priced especially given it’s wonderful location. I had a very fresh green salad with radicchio, then risotto with funghi porcini and I ate every bit of it. The owner and I had a brief conversation (I really appreciate the opportunity to try out my Italian on any unsuspecting native). I explained that I was eating early and in a hurry in order to get to Santa Maria Sopra Minerva early for a concert that started at 8:30 p.m. (My VT friend in Rome, Abarbieri – Antonio – had warned me to get there an hour early to get a good seat – and he was right!) The owner was curious about the concert and I explained what I knew about it. Just a few words exchanged, really – and a few minutes later, he very kindly brought me a gift - a Limoncello in a beautiful yellow and green glass. For those of you who haven’t ever had the pleasure, Limoncello is ambrosia of the gods – an after dinner drink, served cold (I keep mine in the freezer) infused with lemon peel that is so utterly refreshing you’ll think you’re on a terrace in Amalfi, overlooking the Mediterranean. I am always amazed at the kindness of people in Rome in the tourist industry. This gentleman sees hundreds of tourists every day, and yet he went out of his way to offer a kindness to someone who, as far as he knows, he will never see again. It’s enough to melt the icy, overly suspicious, hand-on-your-wallet attitude that you sometimes need to travel with. Back to the dinner. Total cost, about 20E. Really amazingly reasonable given that you’re right on Piazza della Rotunda, looking at della Porta’s fountain and Hadrian’s Pantheon. On a warmer, non-rainy night, I can’t think of many places I’d rather be for a late night dinner in Rome.

Risotto is my favorate dish at ANY Italian restaurant, and it was pretty good here, too.
 

Price: US$11-20
Address: Piazza dell Rotonda, 12 - The northeast corner of Pizza della Rotonda, near the Pantheon. On warm nights, there are plenty of outdoor tables to soak in the atmosphere.
Phone: 06 - 688 - 03 - 387.

Otello alla Concordia: Delizioso homestyle eats from mama Pia!

This place is my favorite in all of Italy. If you're traveling near the Spanish Steps, head down via della Croce, and wander in under the Vespa-lined entry. If it is a nice day, dine outside under the shade of the ancient tree, with it's broad leaves that make a "roof" for this area. Pia is the sweet woman you'll find sitting at the desk in the outdoor seating area. She can tell you great stories about the days when film director Federico Fellini frequented this family establishment. By the way, the food is fantastico!

Orecchiette alle erbe, or any of the pasta and sauces were incredible. I had to go back for another visit during my trip. Catution: once you eat authentic Italian food like this, you'll find it hard to enjoy Italian in American restaurants...even if you live in a place like Chicago, like me.

Price: US$11-20   
Via della Croce, 81 - Roma - Near Spanish Steps

http://www.otelloallaconcordia.com/menu.html

La Scaletta Degli Artisti: Pizza near Piazza Navona

After a few drinks at Jonathan's Angels one night, we stopped off at La Scaletta Degli Artisti for a pizza and some more drinks. La Scaletta Degli Artisti is a friendly restaurant/pizzeria located close to Piazza Navona. We sat in the outside at the front of the restaurant and ordered pizzas and house red wine.

We had 4 different pizzas that were all good -Salami, Prosciuto, Quattro Fromaggio and one with a bit of everything.
 

Theme: Pizza
Price: US$11-20   
Comparison: about average
Address: Via di Santa Maria dell'Anima 56, Roma - A block back from Piazza Navona
Phone: 06 - 68 80 18 72

Taverna della Scala
Piazza della Scala, 19
T: 065814100

In the heart of Trastevere, the center of old Rome, Taverna della Scala occupies a perfect spot for observing Roman nightlife. Like many quality Italian restaurants, the décor is minimal. The outdoor tables are covered in green-and-white checkered cloths. It does not detract from the food.


Bruschetta is simply grilled bread, rubbed with garlic and covered with perfectly ripe tomatoes. No more, no less. The pasta with lobster was bathed in a delicate tomato sauce. Porcini mushrooms were lightly sautéed in olive oil and a touch of garlic to bring out their earthy flavor. After dinner, a glass of limoncello, a bracing lemon liqueur, is an appropriate digestif.

-Toto alle Carrozze
Via delle Carrozze, 10
00187 Roma
T: 06-67-85-558

Shopping on the Via Condotti is an experience. The array of shops loaded with fine clothing and leather goods is astonishing. Walking along the cobbled streets bearing all those packages can make you hungry. Stop for lunch at Toto, not far from the Spanish Steps. Wait for a table outside and watch the mix of tourists and locals passing by.

The starter of a fritto misto of anchovies and zucchini was so good. The anchovies nothing like the mushy, salty mess in the can. You could really taste the flavor of the fish. The veal cutlet came with a rich wine sauce and roasted potatoes. The tagliolini pomodoretti was al dente noodles with a light tomato sauce. The tiramisu and vanilla gelato with fresh berries were perfect endings to a savory meal.

Da Baffetto Via del Governo Vecchio, 114, Rome, 00186 Italy

Historic Roman pizzeria which, for over 40 years, has stood out because of its 'family feel' and for its wide variety of pizzas. Sometimes you may have to queue for a short while, but be patient, the service is very fast and the pizza is really worth the wait! You'll also find mouth-watering bruschette, various salads, mushrooms, beans, and super home-made desserts

Alfredo www.alfredos.com Piazza Augusto Imperatore, 30, Rome, 00186 Italy

Douglas Fairbanks and Mary Pickford, of silent movie fame, were so impressed with this place that they presented it with a gift of gold cutlery, with which the establishment is still pleased to serve on special occasions. Internationally renowned, the restaurant prides itself on its authentic Roman dishes prepared using traditional recipes. Clientele is a mixture of regulars and tourists keen to try out its great fettuccine al triplo burro for themselves.
 

Harry's Bar Via Vittorio Veneto, 150, Rome, 00187 Italy www.harrysbar.it/default.htm

Sophisticated and slightly retro, this well-known restaurant is the ideal place for an intimate dinner or business lunch. Exquisitely presented Italian fare to suit all tastes, accompanied by an equally good range of young wines

Osteria del Pesce
Rome

The owners of Osteria del Pesce, themselves former fishermen, travel an hour from Rome every afternoon to the fishing village of Terracina to handpick the best of the day's catch. The chosen lobsters, clams, and red snappers are then showcased as a culinary "installation" on ice before being served at dinner in this simple, open space off the Piazza Farnese. Sea bass carpaccio, oysters, and langoustines precede a light risotto with zucchini and baby shrimp, a perfectly al dente spaghetti alle vongole with a subtle briny undercurrent, and tender calamari. If you have room, try the grilled red snapper seasoned with parsley and a hint of red chili. The fine wine list emphasizes whites. After your meal, enjoy a late-evening passeggiata in the nearby Campo dei Fiori. And note that the clientele are hip, and dress the part (39-06-686-5617; entrées, $18-$42).

Hostaria La Botticella

In the charming Leopardo alley, close to S.M Trastever in the heart of Trastevere , you'll find La Botticella home to the real Roman cuisine with its rigatoni alla paiata, la coda alla vaccinara, la trippa and la minestra di broccoli e Arzilla, as well as the jewish cuisine such as carciofi alla giudea (artichokes alla Judaic) and tortino d'alici (anchovy's pie). And other specialties. Fresh fish everyday. 40 internal seats- outdoor tables , Credit Cards, Air Conditioning, price € 25.00 - 30.00 excluding drinks.
Menu and prices customized for groups (max. 40 persons)
Open in the evenings up to Midnight Open for lunch and diner on Sundays and holidays. Wednesday closed. Appreciate is the reservation.

http://www.labotticella.com/index_eng.html

Retaurant - Alfredo alla Scrofa
Via della Scrofa, 104
Rome, Italy

40 - 70 euro

Solemnly baptized the "King of Fettuccine" by overseas gourmets, at Alfredo's you can rediscover the magical atmosphere of Rome in the roaring sixties. On the walls of the restaurant are bedazzling selections of photographs of Hollywood stars who have eaten at the home of Pasta Alfredo, who indulged themselves in the taste of the famous fettuccine in triple butter sauce, invented by the first-generation Alfredo.

Other equally valid traditional specialties include mixed fried vegetables, rigatoni alla rigore ( a variation of amatriciana with ham) or one of the appetizing second courses consisting of both classic fish dishes and more imaginative creations like turbot alla duchessa ( with Zucchini, onion, and cherry tomato).

Trattoria da Giggetto
Via del Portico d'Ottavia, 21/a
Rome, Italy

40 - 70 Euro

In the shadow of the ancient Portico d'Ottavia, the age-old roots of Rome's Jewish community are still today firmly planted and respected. Giggetto, run by the Ceccarelli family for three generations, is a faithful representation of the fundamental component of the Roman cuisine. In a very suggestive atmosphere, Giggetto offers typical dishes of the local repertoire like the famous Jewish-style Artichokes, opened like a flower and cooked in boiling oil, baccala (fried fillet of Cod), and courgette flowers filled Mozzarella and anchovies.

Margutta Vegetarian Restaurant
Pzza Rondamini, 53,
Rome, Italy

30 - 60 Euro

The main meeting point for vegetarians in Rome, situated on the corner of the fascinating Via Margutta. Its menu boasts creative and witty dishes, realized by putting together an almost infinite series of combinations that the Mediterranean vegetable garden possesses; golden morsels of seitan with sesame, stringy lasagne with courgette flowers, black truffle and Mozzarella, crunch spinach and Parmesan strudel, or risotto with red radicchio and provolo cheese.

Restaurant Pancotto
Via s. Maria dell'Anima, 58
Rome, Italy

35 - 60 Euro

The famous "triangle of fun" behind Piazza Navona is the trendy location of the restaurant Pancotto, the ideal observatory to watch the evening parade of fashionable people and night-birds hanging out in a vanity fair. Pancotto's cuisine is young and effervescent, and thanks to Signora Irene the menu is constantly providing new and imaginative dishes. Starting with appetizers like the classic eggplant parmesan to the chefs ravioli, soups with mussels and calamari. Original second courses are sea bass" in barchetta" (stuffed with cherry tomatoes and baked ) , roast pork with Barolo wine sauce.

Restaurant - Papa Re
Lungaretta, 149
Trastevere,
Rome, Italy

30 - 50 Euro

Located in Trastevere where popular traditions are their most lively we find the restaurant Papa Re. A cuisine based on pure Roman recipes awaits you. First courses include gnocchi with broccoli or carbonara and amatriciana by the book. Second courses range from Saltimbocca (link to menu items description) to oxtail, roast lab and salt cod fillets. Finish with one of their homemade desserts.

Restaurant Checchino dal 1887
Via del Monte, 30
Testaccio
Rome, Italy

45 - 70 Euro

In Testaccio, the popular heart of Rome, is Checchino dal 1887, a restaurant that does more than justice to the local cuisine. For over a century, the recipes of the area have been based on the various elaborations of scrap meat from the nearby slaughterhouse, namely heart, liver, pagliata, tail, lung and all the offals of which the fat has been reduced, rendering the dishes pleasing to even the most delicate of palates. It's a humble cuisine, plebian and justly considered ingenious for its extraordinary capacity to ennoble the poor prime ingredients. Some examples of dishes are Rigatoni with pagliata, bucatini alla gricia, lamb alla cacciatore, accompanied by great wines from the very-well stocked cellar, dug out of the side of Monte Testaccio, an exceptional example of an artificial hill formed from the accumulation of broken ancient Roman amphorae.


Osteria dell Ingegno
Pzza di Pietro, 45
Rome, Italy

35 - 50 Euro

The restaurant Osteria dell'Ingegno is a chic, bistro-style restaurant in the splendid Piazza di Pietra characterized by its cozy design. Its name ( Osteria of Intelligence ) indicates the carefully thought-out cuisine and the degree of gastronomic research involved in the menu. The rich variety of dishes follows the seasons; enjoy a fish carpaccio ( raw or steamed, with spicy fruit mustard), elegant homemade pasta such as Ravioli with borage and ricotta, taglioni with fresh water shrimp and fish ragu, or tortelli with chestnuts and goat cheese in a red wine sauce.


Restaurant La Terrazza dell'Eden
Via Ludovis, 49
Rome, Italy

90 - ???? Euro

Apart from the restaurant being one of the most prestigious in Rome, here you are also paying for a sensational view of the city as you stare across the skyline of Rome. Chef Enrico Derflingher, has prepared his masterpieces of Mediterranean lightness for the royal court of England and the Whitehouse. Enjoy delightful dishes that provide a contrast of tastes such as the medallion of lobster with a puree of green apples and black truffle, taglioni pasta with saffron and loin of lamb in a crust of peppers and nettles.

Restaurant Hostaria Antica Roma
Via Appia Antica, 87
Rome, Italy

35 - 55 Euro

The setting of this restaurant , one of the oldest in Rome, is breathtaking. The Augustan-age columbarium ( Roman room for cinerary urns), immersed in the green of the Ancient Apian way and illuminated by candlelight, is the backdrop for Roman and Mediterranean cuisine. Crepes filled with bass and zucchini, homemade lasagna with sword fish, cherry tomatoes with clams, baked pork with potatoes and Apicius flan cake ( a sort of crème caramel with milk, eggs, honey and freshly ground pepper).

 

Typical products

Parmigiano

Parmigiano Reggiano has existed since ancient times, and is made from the milk of cows of Emilia-Romagna. It is sold by weight, and purists prefer to buy it cut in thin slices rather than grated. Reggiano should not be confused with industrially-produced variety, the padano, or with the prcorino romano, a slightly spiced and very salty goat's cheese.

Aceto Balsamico (Balsamic Vinegar)

Quite expensive type of vinegar with a distinctive and attractive broen color and a very strong taste. It is a specialty of the Modena city (Emilia Region) and is made from the most of Trebbiano grapes, a vine of the Latium region, kept for a long time and matured for several yearsin gradually smaller barrels made of different woods (oak, chesnut, cherry, ash and mulberry). Balsamic vinegar is good for sore throats and the heart, and goes well with salads, meat, risottos, and even strawberries.

Olio d'Oliva (Olive Oil)

Italy's 180 million olive trees produce 624,200 tonnes of olive oil every year. These are graded into different categories, according to EU regulation. The best oil is calles 'extra virgin' (olio extra vergine di oliva) and is pressed out of the olives at room temperature, just like a fruit juice; to be refined, it needs to be heated. If added to olive oils, it becomes plain olive oil. Italian extra virgin olive oil is also reputed for its extensive health benefits.

Mozzarella

The mozzarella produced in most dairies today is made with cow's milk and has little taste. By far the best type of mozzarella is the mozzarella di Bufala (made from buffalo milk), which owes its taste to the briny nature of Agro Pontino, an area of marchland to the south of Rome. This delicate cheese can't be kept long, and is delicious on pizzas, or eaten with tomatoes, or prosciutto.

Prosciutto

Prosciutto crudo is an Italian seasoned ham specialty. Norcia prosciutto is a salted mountain ham, which is matured over six to eight months, during which time it's washed in red wine and spiced with garlic. Parma ham on the other hand is slightly salted and matured over ten months. It's usually served thinly sliced, even if some prefer thick hand cut slices. The most sought after and expensive hams are Parma and San Daniele.

Pasta

Rather like the plant world, which is divided into families, genera and species, pasta can be devided into frech pasta, dry pasta or filled pasta, with or without eggs. Parmesan is never used on some types of pasta, usually with fish or lots of garlic. If the waiter does not bring the Parmesan cheese, it probably does not go with your pasta.

Pizza

Romans like their pizza thin and light, unlike napilotans and Americans. The best pizza restaurants will always cook with wood and fire, and will use fresh ingredients. Napolitans claim to have the best pizza, but many connaisseurs prefer the delicate taste and composition of a good Roman pizza.